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4FT T5 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 4CCT Adjustable – Multi Voltage

  • Model No.: PVT5-4FT-24WB4GJS-26K
  • Power : 24W
  • CCT : 3500K/ 4000K/ 5000K/ 6500K Adj
  • Base : G5
More Details
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4FT T5 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 4CCT Adjustable – Multi Voltage
4FT T5 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 4CCT Adjustable – Multi Voltage
4FT T5 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 4CCT Adjustable – Multi Voltage

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Product Specification

  • Model No.: PVT5-4FT-24WB4GJS-26K
  • Power:24W
  • Input Voltage:AC120-347V
  • Power Factor:>0.9
  • CRI:>83
  • Brightness:3200LM
  • CCT:3500K/ 4000K/ 5000K/ 6500K Adj
  • Beam Angle:180°
  • Base:G5
  • Dimension:Length 45.7"(with pins)*Ø0.6"
  • Type:B
  • IP Rating:IP20
Link copied!

4FT T5 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 4CCT Adjustable – Multi Voltage

  • Model No.: PVT5-4FT-24WB4GJS-26K
  • Power : 24W
  • CCT : 3500K/ 4000K/ 5000K/ 6500K Adj
  • Base : G5
More Details

Other product from this category

Product Features

  • Model No.: PVT5-4FT-24WB4GJS-26K
  • Power:24W
  • Input Voltage:AC120-347V
  • Power Factor:>0.9
  • CRI:>83
  • Brightness:3200LM
  • CCT:3500K, 4000K, 5000K, 6500K Adj
  • Beam Angle:180°
  • Base:G5
  • Dimension:Length 45.7"(with pins)*Ø0.6"
  • Type:B
  • IP Rating:IP20

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LED Lamps MR16

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LED MR16 Votatec

Product Overview

A 4ft T5 LED tube that wires straight to line voltage. It's a UL Type B lamp, so the old ballast comes out and the sockets feed the tube directly. Nothing left to hum or fail. 24W, 3200 lumens, CRI above 83. It accepts 120V through 347V, so one lamp covers Canadian 347V panels. A switch on the G5 base picks 3500K, 4000K, 5000K or 6500K. Glass tube, plastic safety coating, cULus listed, 5-year warranty. What is a Type B LED tube? A Type B LED tube runs on line voltage with the ballast removed or bypassed. The driver sits inside the lamp, so power runs from the panel to the sockets to the tube. Each fixture gets rewired once, and after that there's no ballast left to fail. That's the trade. More labour on day one, less maintenance for the next decade.

Type A or Type B, which do you need?

Type A keeps the existing ballast and drops straight in. Type B bypasses it and wires to line voltage. This one is Type B. Choose it when ballasts are aging, when a crew is already inside the fixture, or when you want ballast replacement out of the maintenance budget for good. If your ballasts are healthy and speed matters more, we build the same lamp as a Type A.

Single-ended or double-ended wiring?

Both. The manual carries diagrams for double-ended power, where line and neutral land on opposite ends, and single-ended power, where both land on the same end. Crews wire it to suit the fixture instead of rebuilding the fixture to suit the lamp. Every wiring case runs 120V to 347V at 50/60Hz.

What are the drawbacks of a ballast bypass?

The sockets carry line voltage once a fixture is converted. Kill power at the breaker before anyone opens a luminaire, and confirm it's dead with a voltmeter. Two more. The conversion is one way, so a rewired fixture won't run fluorescent lamps again. And the replacement marking and caution label need to go somewhere visible on the luminaire once the work is finished.

Dimming and where it can go

0-10V dimming only, through a dimming module. Standard wall dimmers will damage it. Dry and damp locations, IP20. Keep it away from wet locations and direct weather. For the wiring diagrams, the five installation steps and the required safety markings, open the Manual (PDF), and take the ZIP if your designer needs photometric files for a layout. Send us your fixture count and the panel voltage on site, and we'll come back with a wholesale quote and a wiring check.

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