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4FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 18W

  • Model No.: PV-4FT-18WAB3M
  • Power : 18W
  • CCT : 4000K/ 5000K
  • Base : G13
More Details
4FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 18W
4FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 18W

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Product Details

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Product Specification

  • Model No.: PV-4FT-18WAB3M
  • Power:18W
  • Input Voltage:120-277VAC
  • Power Factor:>0.9
  • CRI:>83
  • Brightness:2300Lm
  • CCT:4000K/ 5000K
  • Base:G13
  • Dimension:47.73x1in
  • Type:A+B
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4FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating – 18W

  • Model No.: PV-4FT-18WAB3M
  • Power : 18W
  • CCT : 4000K/ 5000K
  • Base : G13
More Details

Other product from this category

Product Features

  • Model No.: PV-4FT-18WAB3M
  • Power:18W
  • Input Voltage:120-277VAC
  • Power Factor:>0.9
  • CRI:>83
  • Brightness:2300Lm
  • CCT:4000K, 5000K
  • Base:G13
  • Dimension:47.73x1in
  • Type:A+B

Product Certificates

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LED Lamps MR16

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LED MR16 Votatec

Product Overview

The 4ft T8 Type A+B LED tube installs two ways. Run it on the fixture's existing fluorescent ballast, or bypass the ballast and wire straight to line voltage. One SKU covers both retrofits.

18W replaces a 32W fluorescent lamp at 2,300 lumens. CRI above 83, single 4000K or 5000K, G13 base, 120-277V.

Glass with a shatterproof PET coating. cULus listed, NSF splash-zone rated, 5 year warranty.

What's the difference between a Type A and a Type B LED tube?

Type A runs on the fixture's existing fluorescent ballast. Type B bypasses the ballast and takes line voltage direct. This tube does both, so you decide per fixture on site instead of stocking two part numbers.

Type A is faster. No rewiring, no relabelling, and it drops into a working fixture in under a minute. It also keeps the old ballast in circuit, so you keep its failure rate and parasitic draw. Type B removes both. Where the ballasts are already near end of life, that's the difference between retrofitting once and twice.

Will it run on my existing ballast?

Check the list before you order. Votatec tests this tube against 149 named 120-277V ballasts from Philips Advance, Keystone, Osram, GE, Sylvania and six more, and the table marks each one by lamp count. Not every entry passes. Some clear on two and four lamp layouts and fail on one, so read the row, not the brand.

A second table covers ten 347V ballasts. That matters in Canadian buildings on 347/600V service, where most US-market tubes have nothing tested to offer.

Single-ended or double-ended wiring?

Double-ended is the simpler retrofit. Existing sockets stay, whatever type, as long as they're sound. Single-ended is the one to watch: the installation guide requires un-shunted lamp holders, so shunted sockets have to be swapped first. Either way the tube takes power on any two pins, and the installer marks the wiring type on the label supplied in the box.

Where it fits

Minimum lamp compartment is 1,218 x 573 x 65 mm. Operating range is -20°C to 45°C, so unheated storage is fine. It's rated for dry locations and isn't for direct water exposure. It dims on a 0-10V system in Type B wiring only, not on a standard wall dimmer.

For the full ballast tables, both wiring diagrams and the retrofit labelling steps, open the Manual (PDF), and grab the IES file if your designer needs the measured candela distribution. Send us your fixture count and ballast model and we'll come back with a wholesale quote and a compatibility check.

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