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8FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating

  • Model No.: JL-ALT8-8FTAB-M48W-CCT-VH
  • Power : 48W/ 42W/ 36W/ 30W/24W ADJ
  • CCT : 3500K/ 4000K/ 5000K/ 5700K/ 6500K Adj
  • Base : G13
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8FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating
8FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating
8FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating

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Product Specification

  • Model No.: JL-ALT8-8FTAB-M48W-CCT-VH
  • Power: 48W/ 42W/ 36W/ 30W/24W Adj
  • Input Voltage:AC120-347V
  • Power Factor:>0.9
  • CRI:>80
  • Brightness:130Lm/W
  • CCT:3500K/ 4000K/ 5000K/ 5700K/ 6500K Adj
  • Dimension:92.78“ x 1.13” x 1.29“
  • Type:A+B
  • Base:G13
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8FT T8 Glass LED Tube with Plastic Coating

  • Model No.: JL-ALT8-8FTAB-M48W-CCT-VH
  • Power : 48W/ 42W/ 36W/ 30W/24W ADJ
  • CCT : 3500K/ 4000K/ 5000K/ 5700K/ 6500K Adj
  • Base : G13
More Details

Other product from this category

Product Features

  • Model No.: JL-ALT8-8FTAB-M48W-CCT-VH
  • Power:24W Adj, 30W, 36W, 42W, 48W
  • Input Voltage:AC120-347V
  • Power Factor:>0.9
  • CRI:>80
  • Brightness:130Lm/W
  • CCT:3500K, 4000K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K Adj
  • Dimension:92.78“ x 1.13” x 1.29“
  • Type:A+B
  • Base:G13

Product Certificates

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LED Lamps MR16

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LED MR16 Votatec

Product Overview

This 8ft T8 LED tube sets wattage and colour temperature on the tube itself, so one SKU covers 25 configurations. Type A+B runs it on an existing ballast, or direct-wired once you bypass one.

24/30/36/42/48W selectable, 3500K to 6500K in five steps. CRI above 80, 120 degree beam, AC120-347V.

Shatter-resistant frosted cover. Fa8 caps and the anti-rotation clip are included, R17D is available. ETL certified, 50,000 hours rated, 5-year warranty.

What happens if you put an LED tube in a fluorescent fixture?

It depends on the tube's type, and getting it wrong means the lamp won't light or won't last. Type A runs off the ballast already in the fixture. Type B needs that ballast removed and line voltage wired to the sockets.

This tube is Type A+B, so it does either, and the manual carries both sequences. Timing matters in Canada: under the Products Containing Mercury Regulations, manufacture and import of T5 and T8 fluorescent lamps stopped after 2025-12-31.

Is it better to bypass the ballast for LED lights?

Bypassing wins on efficiency and removes the ballast as a failure point. Keeping it wins on labour.

The bypass here is double-ended, line and neutral to opposite ends. Nothing draws power but the lamp. Leave the ballast in and it's a lamp swap, minutes per fixture, but you inherit its remaining life and its parasitic draw. Across 200 bays that labour gap usually decides it. This lamp does both, so bypass where ballasts are dying and plug-and-play the rest.

One tube, 25 configurations

A slide dial sets 24, 30, 36, 42 or 48W, and 3500K through 6500K in five steps. Set it before install. One order covers a warehouse at 48W and an office corridor at 24W.

Fixture fit, and what won't work

The lamp compartment needs 94in by 1in minimum. The tube is 92.78in long, 1.13in in diameter, and the included clip locks it mid-span so the cover can't sag. Fa8 caps ship with it, R17D is separate.

Four lamps per fixture, maximum. Enclosed luminaires are fine. Dimmers aren't. Don't install it in shunted lampholders, which instant-start ballasts use, or in exit fixtures, raceways, or luminaires marked for through-branch wiring. Indoors, -20°C to 45°C.

For both install sequences, the shunted-lampholder warning and the wiring diagrams, open the Manual (PDF), and pull the IES file if your designer needs candela data. Send us your fixture count and socket type, and we'll come back with a wholesale quote and a read on your existing ballasts.

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