LED Corn Light – 18W-CLW07E

Votatec's 18W LED corn light is a line voltage retrofit lamp for open commercial fixtures. No ballast, no fan. Its photometric file measures 2,444 lumens at 18.57W, so the 131 lm/W is tested, not claimed.

Runs on AC100-277V across 4000K or 5000K. E26 base, E39 adapter in the box, 2.56 by 5.71 inches.

Cast heat sink, CRI above 80, IP64, damp location rated, backed 5 years.

Are LED corn bulbs any good?

The ones with a published test file are. Most aren't, which is why the reputation is poor. Votatec publishes the IES for this lamp, and it measures 2,444 lumens drawing 18.57W at 120V. That's 131 lm/W. Cheap corn bulbs hit their lumen numbers by overdriving the diodes, and overdriving shows up as low efficacy and early failure, not high. Power factor measures 0.989. Download the IES and check it yourself.

Do LED corn bulbs get hot?

They do, and how a lamp sheds that heat decides how long it lasts. This one uses a cast aluminium body as the heat sink with no fan, so there's no moving part to seize. Heat management is also why the manual tells you this lamp suits open luminaires. Votatec publishes minimum enclosure volumes for the 27W and larger lamps, but there's no published figure for the 18W. In an enclosed fixture, ask us first rather than guessing.

What does an 18W corn lamp actually replace?

Roughly a 42W lamp, which is what the spec sheet lists. It isn't a metal halide replacement. A 150W metal halide needs somewhere near 7,000 to 9,600 lumens, and this lamp makes 2,444. Treat it as a small-fixture retrofit: post tops, bollards, stairwells, garage and corridor fittings, decorative lanterns. For metal halide work, move up the range.

Will it fit your fixture?

At 2.56 by 5.71 inches it drops into most E26 sockets, and the 12W to 63W lamps mount horizontally or vertically, so angled post-top sockets are fine. The distribution isn't a perfect sphere. It peaks at 48 degrees off nadir and puts 62% of its output below horizontal, which suits downward fittings well. Existing ballast has to come out first. Leave it in and it resonates against the driver and kills the lamp.

For wiring diagrams, the ballast removal sequence and the AHJ retrofit-kit conditions, open the Manual (PDF), and pull the IES file if your designer needs the candela distribution. Send us your fixture count and socket type and we'll come back with a wholesale quote and a voltage check.